Slapping flukes, arching backs and geysering sea water herald the annual arrival of the California gray whales off Baja California's Pacific coast. From January through March, the magnificent parade of leviathans can be spotted from shore as they head for their calving and mating grounds in the warm waters of Scammon's Lagoon, Bahia Magdalena and Laguna San Ignacio, although February is when they're generally present in greatest numbers. The yearly journey from the Bering Sea comprises over 12,000 miles, the longest known migration of any mammal in terms of distance.
Getting close to these gentle giants, over 50 feet in length, and weighing 20-40 tons is an awe inspiring experience. Unique to whales, these mammals "blow", "fluke", "spyhop" and "lobtail". Mother whales with their 1,000 pound calves, loll at the surface, sleeping and suckling.
WHERE TO WATCH THE WHALES
El Mirador
At km 83, between Tijuana and Ensenada, El Mirador makes an excellent view point high over the ocean. There is plenty of parking and easy on-off access to the toll road with a restaurant that serves good food.
Guerrero Negro
Located approximately 430 miles south of Tijuana, this is probably the best place in Baja to view the gray whales and is just outside of town. You can drive the seven miles out to the old salt loading dock and view the whales quite close up at Laguna Guerrero Negro. The road is rough, so allow ample time. The best time for viewing seems to be about 3 p.m. Professional, licensed whale watching trips are also available and leave twice daily from the Malarrimo restaurant. The launching site is as close as you can get by land to the mouth of Laguana Ojo de Liebre.
In Guerrero Negro facilities are numerous with many hotels, gas stations and restaurants. The Hotel La Pinto on Mexico 1 at the 28th parallel has clean spacious rooms and the modest Hotel El Morro, one mile west of Mexico 1 on the east edge of town has rooms for $35 a night. Many people make the Malarrimo (one mile west of Mexico Highway 1 on the east edge of town) their home base. There is an RV park with full hookups, a small motel and Enrique Achoy's famous Malarrimo restaurant.
Laguana Ojo de Liebre (Scammons Lagoon)
While there are no facilities here, camping is allowed and can be reached by going fifteen
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miles south of Guerrero Negro on Mexico 1 and turning right at the sign "Parque Nacional de Las Ballenas Gris" close to km 208. This dirt road is closed to the public except during the whale season when they grade and maintain it for tourists. The side roads in this area belong to Guerrero Negro's salt company and are closed to public use. A salt company check point is 3.7 miles west; after this the road to Scammon's Lagoon crosses a levee between two evaporating ponds, where large salt dredges can occasionally be seen at work harvesting the salt. It is a long drive and sometimes there are sandy spots so allow plenty of time. Camp at the far west end as near to the nursery channel as possible.
San Ignacio Lagoon
South of San Ignacio, a dirt road goes thirty miles to San Ignacio Lagoon and the road is not always maintained. Local fishermen will take you out among the whales, however, it is still a long way by boat to the mouth where most of the whales congregate. There are no facilities.
Bahia Magdalena
The Bahia Magdalena (often referred to as Mag Bay) with its canals, bays and bocas are filled with the whales January through March. Pangeros offer two-hour boat tours from this area for $25 per panga per hour, with up to five passengers. The two most popular spots at Bahia Magdalena are Puerto Lopez Mateos and Puerto San Carlos.
Puerto Lopez Mateos
When entering Ciudad Insurgentes on Mexico 1 from the east, turn right and go north two miles to the turn off for Lopez Mateos. Turn left and stay on this paved, well-maintained highway to the very end, approximately thirty miles. Go through town to the light house where there are limited campsites at the waters edge. Local fishermen can be hired to take you whale watching. There are very limited facilities here, no RV parks or motels. Small planes fly people in and out from La Paz and whales can be viewed from the shore.
Puerto San Carlos
Puerto San Carlos is thirty-five miles from Cd. Constitucion on Mexico 1. At the Pemex station in the middle of town, turn west on a paved, well-maintained road BCN 22. Mangroves fringe the peninsula; a long wharf stretches from the western shore to the only other deep water port besides Ensenada. The small port town has about 5,000 residents, a PEMEX station, cafe and the Hotel Las Brisas, Hotel Marlin and Motel Palmar. Camping and RV parking at the north and south ends of the small peninsula costs around US $4 per vehicles. Buy supplies in Constitucion, since only limited supplies are available in San Carlos.
GETTING THERE
Highway Mexico 1 in Baja California is in good condition. The toll road extends from Tijuana 72 miles south to Ensenada. South of Ensenada, the road is quite narrow, and has sections under construction, repairing bridge washouts from the storms last winter. There are
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potholes that are especially bad in some areas, and driving at night is definately not recommended. Gasoline (Magna Sin) is plentiful with PEMEX stations located all down the peninsula. If you plan to drive in Mexico, your US insurance will not cover you past the border, and Mexican insurance if very important since you must be able to prove financial responsibility if in an accident.
Hotels, RV parks and campsites are many and easy to locate as well as numerous good restaurants. For further information contact Mexico Travel Associates at 800-359-3736.
TOURS
Follow the Whales, departs from San Diego, California on Saturday, February 25, 1995. Package is 7 days, six nights and includes one-way deluxe air-conditioned motorcoach transportation with bilingual guide. Hotel accommodations for six nights in Catavina, Guerrero Negro, Loreto, Puerto San Carlos and La Paz (two nights), including tax. Two lunches and two dinners are also provided during the trip. Three days of whale watching at Scammons Lagoon, Lopez Mateos and San Carlos are the center piece of the trip. Return air transportation from La Paz to Tijuana and transfers from airport in Tijuana to San Diego are also part of the package. Price per person is $1,199 for a single and $999 for a double. Nature lovers and photographers will find great birdwatching, hiking, beachcombing and the stark beauty of desert meeting the sea. Call 800-359-3736 for reservations.
For more information, contact Mexico Travel Associates at P.O. Box 1498-W, Imperial Beach, Ca. 91933.
